Chillable Reds, Part One
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Hi everyone –
You’ve read the news: wine sales are down. Depending on who you talk to, there is either murmuring frustration or outright panic. I have my own opinions regarding this, which will appear in a future article. Still, in the meantime, I want to shine a light on one category that is not only getting lots of attention but is also the hottest category in wine bars across the country.
Chilled red wines.
I’m not talking about “cool” red wines or red wines served at the right temperature. I’m talking about stick-it-in-the-ice-bucket red wines to enjoy on sunny and hot days.
My first intro to chilled red wines
It was about 2006, and I worked with Annette Peters at World Class Wines. She had just found a new winery to import from Sicily and introduced me to the Frappato grape.
“Here, try this …” she said, handing me a red wine. I swirled, smelled, and sipped. It was playful, bright, punchy, lively, and yummy. Also, it was room temperature. “It’s good, I like it,” I said without enthusiasm.
“Now, try this … ” she said, handing me a glass covered with moisture beads. It was cold in my hand. I swirled, smelled, and sipped. What was a pleasant little wine exploded with high-toned red fruits, sharp acidity, and brightness. It was the exact same wine, and it tasted incredible. It was an explosion on my palate.
That was my introduction to the world of chilled red wine, and the category has been growing slowly since the mid-2000s. But thanks to an article in yesterday’s San Francisco Chronicle, that slow growth is about to accelerate.
“Even at a time when Bay Area restaurants are seeing lagging red wine sales, the chilled-red niche appears to be thriving. Many establishments report that anything marked as “chilled red” on a menu becomes their most in-demand wine — notable continuity for a category that’s so malleable.
“Recently, oh my God, it’s like everybody wants a chilled red,” said Lalo Luevano, an owner of the San Francisco bars Bodega, Key Klub and Celeste, all three of which count chilled red as their best-selling category.”
This is not surprising. A chilled glass of red wine is not only a joy to drink, but it also pairs well with the current trends of cuisine: casual, fun, ethnic, and dynamic. It’s a way to say, “I love wine, but I’m not pretentious!” which is exactly what the wine world needs more of.
This week’s wines: Loire Valley!
This week’s selections include three great wines, all from the Loire Valley. Two are from Mary Taylor, a favorite importer, and one is a gem from Thomas Calder Selections via Domaines and Appelations (Annette Peters).
Amaranthe Chinon 2023
The Amaranthe Chinon 2023 is a 100% Cabernet Franc red wine from the Baudry & Dutour winery in Chinon. It is known for its rich, fruity flavors and supple texture.
Aromas of raspberry and strawberry abound, along with an exotic edge of spices. A bit of a floral profile adds to the springtime freshness of this wine. The fruit is ripe but not overt, and the acids are balanced without being too sharp. It’s just damn good juice.
Of all three wines, this is the fullest bodied (though NOT full bodied, just a pleasant medium bodied). It has texture and richness, while the other two have brightness and lift.
Mary Taylor Anjou Rouge 2023 (Pascal Boitteau)
We’re suckers for ANYTHING selected by the amazing Mary Taylor. We’re proud that we were the first to promote her wines in the Twin Cities, including having her as a guest at one of the first post-COVID events we did. I love her marketing, consistent labels highlighting the region, the family that made the wine, and her as the selector/importer. From across the room you can spot a bottle of Mary Taylor selections.
The Mary Taylor Anjou Rouge 2023 is produced by the Biotteau family, who have been making wine in the Coteaux de L’Aubance within the Anjou-Villages for four generations. The family is deeply committed to respecting the land, and their winery is HVE level 3 certified, reflecting their dedication to sustainable and conscientious winemaking practices
It’s a blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from 25-30 year old vines. This wine is crafted from vineyards situated on a geological fault-line, with half of the vines grown in slate soils and the other half in tuffeau, a chalky limestone found in the Paris basin. The result is a wine that offers a complex and layered profile, balancing the bright acidity of the Cabernet Franc with the depth and structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon.
Jason’s official tasting note: yum. Yes. More, please.
Mary Taylor Valençay 2023 (Sophie Siadou)
This is one of our favorite chillable red wines. Valençay is a small appellation in the Loire that allows for quite a range of grapes in the blend. This wine is 35% Gamay, 35% Côt (the local name for Malbec), and 30% Pinot Noir. If that sounds intriguing, you’re right! What a fun blend.
From the back label:
The flinty soils of the Loire Valley appellation of Valençay are known for giving their wines a finesse, perhaps even a chalkiness. This cuveé is known as “Les Griotes” or “the cherries” as its gentle flavor and character has notes of red fruits (cherry and blackcurrant), with a hint of spices in the finish. Farmed sustainably and fermented with indigenous yeasts. You might try one of the area’s famed goat cheeses to pair with this classically elegant wine.
Tasting note: This wine is so awesome. Sophie Siadou has nailed it in terms of the blend, and with every sip you seem to lean into one of the three grapes. The Pinot Noir gives it beauty. The Gamay gives it sassiness. And the Malbec is keeping the beat and adding some backbone. This is a perfect wine for a “cheeseboard for dinner” night with high-quality charcuterie and delicious cheeses and olives, especially if you can find some from the Loire Valley. What grows together goes together. Learn more about the cheese of Valençay.
The best Loire Valley Wine Map
Here’s Angela’s excellent Loire Valley map for you to download. It covers the whole valley and the wide range of grapes permitted in each subregion.
Buying advice
This is all about stocking up on grab-and-go wines for the summertime, especially if you like drinking on the patio as things get warmer. Hop on the trend and chill down these bottles!
Each wine is priced individually, with a 3pk, 6pk, and 12pk (deepest discount) price.
Thanks again, everyone! Enjoy your wines!
Jason and Angela Kallsen
Co-owners, Twin Cities Wine Education
Jason Kallsen
Sommelier and founder/owner of Twin Cities Wine Education
Offer and special pricing are available as inventory lasts