Tasting History: Dr. Konstantin Frank of New York’s Finger Lakes
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Hi everyone –
This week’s offer is near and dear to my wine heart.
I love the pioneers of the wine world. The ones that strike out first and blaze the trail through the thick woods ahead. The Eyrie Vineyards is a prime example. So was Robert Mondavi, Joe Heitz, the early years of Inglenook, Dick Sanford of Santa Barbara, and many others.
Outside of the Lett family at Eyrie, few can hold the “Pioneer” title higher than Dr. Konstantin Frank of the Finger Lakes of New York. Here we have a perfect little offer to get to know this important winery, which Dr. Frank started at the age of 63 after leaving his home country of Ukraine for a new life in the United States.
Introduction to “Dr. K”
Tucked away in the rolling hills of New York’s Finger Lakes, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery is more than just a vineyard—it’s a testament to passion, perseverance, and the power of a great idea. If you’ve ever sipped a world-class Riesling or a crisp, mineral-driven Brut sparkling wine from this storied estate, you’ve tasted history in a glass. But to truly appreciate what’s inside the bottle, you need to understand the remarkable journey that led to its creation.
From the winery website:
Dr. Konstantin Frank earned his Ph.D. in Viticulture from Odessa, Ukraine in 1930 and became a leading expert in his field throughout Eastern Europe. Having survived two World Wars and the Russian Revolution, Dr. Frank immigrated to New York in 1951. At the age of 52 years old with empty pockets and no knowledge of English, he hoped to create a brighter future for his family.
He fell in love with a special property in the Finger Lakes for its exceptional characteristics – poor soils and steep slopes. With decades of knowledge and experience, Dr. Frank successfully planted the first European grape varieties in the Eastern United States in 1958.
In 1962, merely a decade after arriving in America, Dr. Frank founded Vinifera Wine Cellars. The winery quickly earned a reputation for spectacular Rieslings, and its original planting of vines formed the backbone of New York’s world-class wines and champagnes.
Be sure to watch the video above. It’s awesome. Length: 2:35.
The Finger Lakes AVA: A Terroir Like No Other
Nestled in upstate New York, the Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area (AVA) is one of the most exciting and dynamic wine regions in the United States. With its deep, glacially carved lakes and rolling hills, the region offers a unique microclimate that allows for cultivating some of the world’s finest cool-climate grape varieties. Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc thrive here, benefiting from the moderating influence of the lakes, which help to extend the growing season and protect the vines from harsh winter temperatures.
Winemaking in the Finger Lakes dates back to the early 19th century when European immigrants planted the first vineyards. Initially, native grapes like Concord and Catawba dominated the landscape, but as knowledge and experimentation grew, winemakers began to introduce hybrid and vinifera varieties. The real turning point came in the 1950s and ’60s when pioneers like Dr. Konstantin Frank proved that traditional European grapes could flourish in the region’s challenging climate.
Today, the Finger Lakes AVA is home to over 130 wineries, each with its unique expression of the land. The region’s diverse soils—from shale to limestone—impart distinctive characteristics to the wines, making every bottle reflect its specific vineyard site. The AVA is named for its 11 long, narrow, deep lakes, with Seneca and Cayuga being the largest and deepest. Seneca Lake, the deepest at 618 feet, is crucial in regulating temperatures, creating a near-maritime climate that allows delicate grape varieties to thrive. This natural insulation helps prevent early frosts in the fall and protects vines from severe winter freezes, making viticulture possible even in a northern climate.
Insider’s info: From roughly May through September, Delta flies direct from MSP to Syracuse, New York, three times a week. From Syracuse, rent a car and head to Ithaca for nice hotels and restaurants or rent an Airbnb overlooking the lakes. This is a great, quick, affordable wine vacation!
The Finger Lakes wine industry has expanded dramatically over the past few decades, with small, family-run wineries coexisting alongside internationally recognized producers. Wine trails along Seneca, Cayuga, and Keuka Lakes offer immersive tasting experiences, while sustainable farming practices continue to shape the region’s future. The area has also become a hub for agritourism, with farm-to-table dining, local cheesemakers, and craft breweries contributing to its thriving culinary scene.
A Visionary Winemaker
Dr. Konstantin Frank arrived in the United States in 1951, a Ukrainian immigrant with a Ph.D. in viticulture and an unshakable belief that the Finger Lakes’ cool climate could produce wines rivaling Europe’s. At the time, the prevailing wisdom was that only native grapes and hybrids could withstand the region’s harsh winters. But Frank, who had successfully cultivated delicate vinifera varieties in Ukraine’s similarly frigid climate, knew better.
His breakthrough came in 1957 when he planted his first vinifera vines on the slopes of Keuka Lake. The skeptics scoffed, but Frank’s intuition was spot on. His vines flourished with the help of strategic rootstocks and careful site selection. By the 1960s, Dr. Frank was producing Rieslings and sparkling wines that caught the attention of critics and connoisseurs alike, proving that the Finger Lakes had the potential to be a world-class wine region.
Today, the winery remains family-owned, with Konstantin’s descendants continuing his legacy of innovation and excellence.
An awesome little line-up of wines
Dr. Konstantin Frank Brut is crafted in the traditional method, a sparkling wine that celebrates precision and patience. Aromas of green apple, citrus zest, and delicate floral notes lead into a crisp, refreshing palate with flavors of toasted brioche, pear, and a fine, persistent mousse. The balance of acidity and minerality makes it an exquisite pairing for oysters, creamy cheeses, or celebratory toasts. The wine we are offering is the 2021 vintage, disgorged in December 2024! Three full years on the lees. It is particularly good with some runny triple creme brie!
Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling is a flagship wine of the Finger Lakes. It delivers electric acidity balanced with notes of lime zest, green apple, and a distinct minerality that speaks to the region’s unique terroir. Bright and zesty on the palate, it finishes with a lingering, steely crispness. This wine is a natural match for fresh seafood, Thai cuisine, or goat cheese. It’s particularly good with a fresh spring or summer salad on the deck in the sun.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling perfectly balances high acidity and residual sugar, featuring ripe peach, apricot, and honeyed citrus notes, making it a versatile companion to spicy dishes and rich cheeses. It’s 11% ABV, which, to me, is an ideal level of alcohol-to-sugar for a wine like this. The subtle sweetness enhances flavors without overwhelming the palate, making it a perfect pairing for Indian or Szechuan cuisine and roasted poultry with fruit-based sauces. Particularly good with elevated Mexican, Indian, or Pan-Asian cuisine.
Sidebar: my favorite simple thing to do with any seafood, but especially swordfish, is the following. Squeeze a lime or two, add a tablespoon of olive oil, finely dice up a jalapeño or other hot pepper, and chop a bunch of cilantro. Just before cooking (if using swordfish, cube and skewer) coat the fish in the mix and cook fast and hot (grilling preferred). Once off the heat, finish with another squeeze of lime. That combo of flavors will EXPLODE with the Off-Dry Riesling. It’s one of the best food/wine combos you can have.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Cabernet Franc is one of the red stars of the Finger Lakes. It exudes aromas of black cherry, raspberry, and a touch of earthy spice. On the palate, it offers notes of red currant, plum, and hints of tobacco, framed by silky tannins and vibrant acidity. Its structured yet approachable nature makes it a fantastic choice for pairing with roasted meats, grilled vegetables, or wild mushroom risotto. This is my current favorite domestic Cabernet Franc.
The Finger Lakes at sunset. Could it get any better? Photo credit: Stu Gallagher via the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance.
More Than Just Wine
Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery is a cornerstone of American winemaking history. It revolutionized viticulture in the United States by proving that vinifera grapes, the foundation of European fine wines, could thrive in the cool climate of the Finger Lakes. This breakthrough not only transformed the Finger Lakes into a premier wine-producing region but also inspired winemakers nationwide to rethink what was possible in colder climates.
The winery’s contributions extend beyond its own vineyards. By sharing research, mentoring other winemakers, and promoting the Finger Lakes on an international stage, Dr. Konstantin Frank laid the groundwork for a thriving, world-class wine industry in the region. Today, His legacy is seen in the hundreds of wineries that populate the area, producing wines that continue to earn global acclaim.
Dr. Konstantin Frank’s pioneering spirit and commitment to excellence have made his winery not just a producer of great wine but a symbol of innovation and resilience in American winemaking. Each bottle that bears his name carries a story of determination, expertise, and a passion for elevating the art of viticulture in the United States.
Buying advice
My advice is simple: buy the four-pack.
Why? Because most of my readers will gravitate toward the Cabernet Franc first, and probably the sparkling wine. Whether dry or off-dry, Riesling is still an uphill battle (but I don’t know why). You have to trust me when I say that if you passed up on them, you’d be missing out on two of the cleanest and most expressive whites on the market today. They are everything we want in white wines: bright, crisp, sense of place, family ownership, sustainable farming, and perfect for spring or summer on the patio. Go for it!
Thanks, everyone!
Jason Kallsen
Sommelier and founder/owner of Twin Cities Wine Education
Offer and special pricing are available as inventory lasts