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Hi everyone –

The Pinot Family is a class we teach now and then, and it’s an eye-opener for many.

Most wine consumers don’t know that Pinot Gris/Grigio and Pinot Blanc/Bianco started simply as pigment mutations of Pinot Noir. You read that right! When it comes down the DNA profile, the proper reference to the grapes is simply “Pinot” and the variations of Noir/Grigio/Bianco only refer to the color of the grapes.

Pretty cool, uh?

I’m not going to get into the nitty-gritty of the science. But here’s a paragraph from a fantastic article on Vinepair about the subject:

Nearly all Pinot Noir grapevines have both active and inactive chromosomal regions that contain these “pigment” genes. Sometimes, however, an inactive chromosomal region replaces an active one. What this means is that cells of Pinot Blanc emerge from a Pinot Noir plant. To sum it up? When you’re drinking Pinot Blanc, you’re drinking the result of a mutated Pinot Noir plant.

And if you REALLY want to dive into the science of this subject, read this: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23095995/

What I really want to do here is introduce you to two important topics: the wines of Alto Adige, and the producer featured here, J. Hofstätter.

Alto Adige 101

If I had all the money in the world, this is where I would live.

You can be enjoying lunch in April or May with a friend outside of the city of Bolzano, under a palm tree, in shorts and a t-shirt, sipping on incredible local wines and eating local food, when you friend suddenly asks “Hey, wanna go skiing?”

Your answer is of course, yes. And about 30-45 minutes later you’re in the powder in the Alps.

That’s pretty cool.

Photo: Giuseppe Milo

Alto Adige is in far northern Italy, one hour north of Verona. But while Verona is extremely Italian (think pasta, risotto, and Romeo and Juliet), Alto Adige is Germanic, having been part of Austria until the early 20th century. In Alto Adige, you don’t go to an Enoteca for dinner, you go to a Gasthof. Everyone speaks German (and Italian, and English). The trains run on time … the only place they do in all of Italy.

And the wines!

Wild diurnal temperature swings, along with a narrow valley with directly east and west facing vineyards, ensure acidity is the name of the game. Wether you’re drinking white, rosé, or red, when the wines are from Alto Adige you can be assured of lip-smacking goodness. These wines are always best served with some charcruterie and cheeses to help balance out the acid. If you really want to live it up, buy some speck (cured ham with juniper berries).

Cool facts about Alto Adige

From the always fun to read Wine Folly. Read their complete guide to Alto Adige.

• Grapes have been grown here for almost 2,500 years.
• There are 13,800 acres (5,600 ha) of vineyards with 274 wineries and 5,000 growers.
• Alto Adige DOC has 6 sub-regions.
• 70% of production is by cooperative wine cellars (a very high percentage!).
• Alto Adige has the highest concentration of Michelin Stars in all of Italy.
• 98% of all production is DOC wine – the highest in Italy!
• 64% of Alto Adige wine is white wine.
• 70% of people in Alto Adige (Südtirol) speak German.

Photo of me on my first day in Alto Adige, May 2003.

One of our favorite producers: J. Hoffstätter

We have a short list of favorites of Alto Adige, and often leading that list is J. Hoffstätter.

We’ve followed their wines for over twenty years, and they have consistently impressed us with purity, freshness, detail, and quality. In fact, looking back in my tasting notes I’ve noticed a consistent uptick in quality year after year since about 2017 (and the wines were delicious then, but even better now).

From the winery website:

Martin Foradori Hofstätter took over the winery from his parents in 1992. Together with his wife, he embarked on an era of modernisation and expansion of the winery. Built in 1998, the cellar tower has become an unobtrusive but nevertheless defining feature of the Tramin village alongside the imposing parish steeple tower.

More recently, in 2017, he expanded to Trentino, the home of his ancestors. He purchased the Maso Michei farmstead in the Valle di Ronchi, a fascinating mountain area above the town of Ala. Today, Tenuta J. Hofstätter is one of Alto Adige’s largest family wine estates with unique, outstanding vineyards.

Our family has always shaped the winery and we too, are equally shaped by the winery. Our three children have grown up in the everyday life of our family business. After finishing their studies and gaining important work experience, they are eager to shape the future of the winery.

THE WINES

J. Hofstätter Pinot Bianco 2023

In Alto Adige, the German name for Pinot Bianco, Weißburgender, is used interchangeably with Pinot Bianco. Head over the border to France, and it becomes Pinot Blanc. Interestingly, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay were mixed up for many centuries for their leaf and vine structure is very similar. Only in the early to mid 20th century was the confusion worked out.

Pinot Bianco is a magical grape for me. It’s often a bit more structured and serious than Pinot Grigio, giving more orchard fruits and minerality. The Italians themselves love it (and drink it far more than Pinot Grigio).

Rich and unctuous, with loads of apple and pear, along with an alpine/mountain freshness that is addictive. Think peach meets minerals and you get a sense of what I mean. Ideal pairing: lobster risotto!

J. Hoffstätter Pinot Grigio 2022

Here’s the truth: there is a lot of crap Pinot Grigio out there. The reasons are easy to understand.

1. Americans love their Pinot Grigio. Light bodied, crisp, clean, and palate cleansing.
2. Americans love a bargain, something cheap.
3. Pinot Grigio as a vine grows like a weed and can produce up to 12 tons of fruit per acre, though the quality will go down.
4. As a result of everything listed above, there is a tsunami of lemon-water cheap Pinot Grigio that hits the American market every year.

However, if you grown Pinot Grigio in the right place (like Alto Adige), and limit the crop loads, and have a deft touch with winemaking (ala J. Hoffstätter), you can end up with a wine that is mind blowing in its depth and complexity.

That’s what you have here.

91 Points Wine Spectator:

This minerally white offers a subtle waft of petrol notes, with a tang of salinity layered with ripe persimmon, pear and beeswax flavors, plus accents of almond skin, pink grapefruit zest, chamomile and white pepper. There’s a supple, pleasing plumpness to this version, but it’s reined in nicely by deftly honed acidity. Drink now through 2029. 12,500 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.

J. Hofstatter Pinot Nero “Meczan” 2022

In Alto Adige, the Italian name for Pinot Noir is Pinot Nero. And on the label you’ll also see the German name for the grape, Blauburgunder.

I remember sitting in a wine bar in Alto Adige watching an obnoxious American couple trying to order wines. “We have some outstanding Weißburgender and Blauburgunder!” the bartender said.

“Oh no thanks we don’t like those wines,” said the Americans.

“Oh then how about a Pinot Bianco and a Pinot Noir?”

“Fabulous! Exactly what we were looking for!”

Okay, take note here. Pinot Nero from Alto Adige is a bit of a different animal. It’s leaner and edgier that anything you’ll find from the west coast of North America. “Plush” is not a word here.

I LOVE THIS WINE. It’s a razor’s edge of a red wine, able to cut right through the richest of dishes. If you have this wine (a bit chilled) with anything fatty, rich, and yummy you’ll be incredibly happy.

My favorite pairing is rib eye steak with a side of brussel sprouts. This is one of the only wines I’ve found that can dance between the power of a rib eye and the green veggie flavors.

Final thoughts

This is a fantastic package with tremendous bang-for-the-buck. Supporting a family owned winery like this is what we love to do the most, and these three wines make for an easy collection to enjoy.

Special three pack pricing only good for 24 hours. All wines available to pick up on Friday August 16th at Solo Vino, starting in the early evening.

Jason Kallsen
Sommelier and founder/owner of Twin Cities Wine Education

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Offer and special pricing are available as inventory lasts