Zinfandel Education: Turley 2021 Single Vineyards
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Hi everyone –
I haven’t talked much about Zinfandel lately — in fact, looking back, I realized the last Zinfandel in a Friday Offer was April of 2024, with Ridge Vineyards. Oh my.
It’s time to change that. I don’t want you to think I’m hating on Zin, which is one of my favorite grapes for many reasons. But Zinfandel has been a bit of a punching bag for many over the last five years or so, as wine drinkers gravitate toward lower alcohol wines seeking “balance.” (Zinfandel has naturally higher sugar levels at harvest, resulting in consistently higher alcohol levels at bottling.)
Avoiding 14%+ alcohol wines under the guise of “seeking balance” is, in the words of the late great George Carlin, pure bullshit.
Sorry to be so blunt.
“Balance” in a wine is unpredictable until you smell it and taste it. I’ve had in-balance 16% alcohol Pinot Noirs, and I’ve had out-of-balance 12% Cabernets and Zinfandels. It’s impossible to grab a bottle, look at only the alcohol level, and declare it to be balanced or unbalanced based on some Jedi-level connection with the juice.
So let’s first define the B word. In our wine classes I try not to talk too much about wine (ironic, I know) because we need to connect the dots with something we know better to encourage understanding. So for BALANCE, I often tell two stories:
First, you’re on a dance floor. You and your partner are hand in hand. Maybe it’s a first date. And you can tell right away, without too much thought, how the rest of the dance is going to go. Is there rhythm? Is there flow? Is there call and response to the subtle movements of your hands and feet? Or are your toes being stepped on, elbows splayed, and a complete lack of anything resembling cadence? Is the dance in balance or out of balance?
Second, you’re a concert for a band you know really well. You’ve been to their shows before. You’ve been looking forward to this night for weeks. And they tear into your favorite song … and you realize the drummer had a few too many beers ahead of hitting the stage. Something is off. It’s still a favorite song, but not as fun as last time. “Love this band, but maybe this is the last time I need to see them,” floats in your brain. The music is out of balance, and not as good as the last time you experienced it.
If you want to read a great article on this topic, check this out (one of my favorite wine articles ever).
Turley: From Powerhouse to Terroir Storyteller
Few wineries have reshaped the conversation around “Balance” and Zinfandel like Turley Wine Cellars. Founded in 1993 by Larry Turley (an emergency room doctor turned vintner), the winery quickly made a name for itself with bold, rich, powerful Zinfandels. In the 1990s and early 2000s, these were the wines that put “big Zin” on the map—dense, high-octane, fruit-forward bottlings that were unapologetically Californian.
But over the past two decades, Turley has evolved. That’s actually putting it mildly. In the past, “Turley” was so attached at the hip with the image of big, clunky, high-alcohol, and out of balance wines that it became a punching bag for sommeliers around the world, including me.
But under the guidance of winemaker Tegan Passalacqua, the focus shifted away from sheer power and toward expression of place. Today, Turley works with more than 50 heritage vineyards across California, many of them planted before Prohibition, all farmed organically, and each bottled separately to highlight its unique voice. The result is a remarkable study in terroir: Zinfandel not as a caricature of jammy weight, but as a lens into California’s historic vineyard landscapes. They are in the same league as Ridge and Bedrock, and that’s saying a lot.
I now love and embrace the wines of Turley Wine Cellars more than I ever thought I would. And they just keep getting better.
Larry’s daughter Christina Turley, who is taking over the operation and has been fundamental in the new terroir-driven styles that the winery has embraced. She’s a powerhouse, and I hope to do an event with her in the future.
Two Vineyards, Two Histories
We’ve picked two wines for this offer. They are from the same vintage but opposite in style (100% attributed to terroir).
Evangelho Vineyard (Contra Costa County)
Planted in the 1890s, Evangelho Vineyard sits at the sandy junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, east of San Francisco. Suburbia has surrounded it (the back side of a Home Depot borders the vineyard). The gnarled, own-rooted vines grow directly in deep Delhi blow sand, a soil so loose that phylloxera never took hold here. Cooling Delta breezes sweep across the vines, giving freshness to the fruit. The site is unusual in its mixed plantings—Zinfandel intertwined with Carignane, Mourvèdre (here called Mataro), and even Palomino—creating a field blend that adds nuance and lift. Evangelho has survived suburban sprawl, industrial encroachment, and shifting tastes in wine, standing as a monument to California’s earliest grape growers.
Those that follow my love of Bedrock Winery know how much I cherish any wine from the Evangelho Vineyard. Here are the owners of Bedrock talking about Evangelho (which they purchased not too long ago, ensuring its survival).
Fredericks Vineyard (Moon Mountain District, Sonoma)
A world away, Fredericks Vineyard was planted in 1937 on the steep, volcanic slopes of the Mayacamas. At 800–1,200 feet in elevation, these head-trained vines are rooted in red volcanic soils and uplifted seabed, soaking up long days of sun while cooling off at night thanks to the elevation. Farming here is entirely organic and dry, with the vines clinging to terraced slopes.
Where Evangelho whispers with delicacy, Fredericks roars with mountain intensity: structured, concentrated, and destined for the cellar.
Frederick’s Vineyard, Moon Mountain, Sonoma Valley. Photo from Turley Wine Cellars.
Tasting notes
2021 Turley Evangelho Vineyard Zinfandel
From the beach-like sands of Contra Costa, the 2021 Evangelho offers a rare side of Zinfandel: bright, lifted, and perfumed. Aromas of rose petal, lavender, and even sea spray lead into a palate of cranberry, blood orange, and plum. Light on its feet, with mouthwatering acidity, this wine shows Zin’s potential for elegance and finesse. Serve it with grilled salmon, roasted vegetables, or charcuterie, and don’t be afraid to chill it slightly on a warm evening. 92-94 points Vinous.
2021 Turley Fredericks Vineyard Zinfandel
From the rugged red soils of Moon Mountain, Fredericks is a study in depth and structure. The 2021 vintage layers black cherry, plum skin, graphite, tobacco, and savory herbs over firm tannins and a long, resonant finish. This is a powerful expression, built for heartier dishes—lamb chops, braised short ribs, or rosemary-rubbed tri-tip. While it’s already impressive in the glass, patience will be rewarded: Fredericks has the bones to age gracefully for 10–15 years. 94-96 points Vinous.
Quick Comparison
| Attribute | Evangelho Vineyard (Contra Costa) | Fredericks Vineyard (Moon Mountain, Sonoma) |
|---|---|---|
| Year Planted | 1890s | 1937 |
| Vine Age | 120+ years, own-rooted | 85+ years, own-rooted |
| Soil Type | Deep Delhi blow sand | Red volcanic soils, uplifted seabed |
| Elevation | Sea level, Delta winds | 800–1,200 feet, mountain climate |
| Farming | Organic, dry-farmed, field blend | Organic, dry-farmed |
| Wine Style | Bright, floral, red-fruited, saline | Dark, structured, black-fruited, powerful |
| Food Pairings | Grilled salmon, charcuterie, chèvre | Lamb, braised beef, hearty winter dishes |
| Drinking Window | 3–7 years, irresistible young | 5–15 years, best with patience |
Tasting Them Side by Side
The real magic comes when you pour them together. Evangelho shows Zinfandel’s bright, elegant, perfumed side, while Fredericks brings power, depth, and mountain-grown muscle. Same winery, same grape, same vintage—two radically different stories in the glass.
The two-pack is where it’s at. These are perfect for side-by-side enjoyment, educational tastings, or simply experiencing Zinfandel at its most profound. Of course they are available individually as well to stock the cellar.
Only 36 bottles of each are available at these special prices.
Thank you!
Jason Kallsen
Sommelier and founder/owner of Twin Cities Wine Education
Offer and special pricing are available as inventory lasts